Take Control
Like 65 percent of the women in this country, I have naturally curly hair. And whenever I really need my hair to look good, I wear it straight: I know I can wrestle it into just the shape and texture I want with a brush and blow-dryer. With my curls, I simply don't have that power: I put the product in, wait till it dries, and hope for the best. But not anymore! I talked to two Lords of the Ringlets — Ouidad of Ouidad Salon and Lorraine Massey of Devachan Salon, both in New York City — who set me straight on the curl issue. Here at last, the secrets to taking control of your curls.
Prep
Nonstripping shampoo"Curly hair is naturally dehydrated," says Massey. "So you want to leave a little scalp sebum behind — it's the best conditioner out there."
I tried: DevaCurl Low-Poo, $14. It's sulfate-free, so there was less lather than I'm used to, but my hair still felt nice and clean.
Prep
Rinse-out/leave-in conditionerYou want to leave a little conditioner in at the end of your shower for extra weight and frizz protection.
I tried: Kinky-Curly Knot Today, $12. Smells yummy and made my hair feel silky.
Prep
Protein-based deep-conditioning treatment, done biweekly"If hair is conditioned internally," says Ouidad, "it won't react to every little change in the external humidity level."
I tried: Ouidad Deep Treatment, $50 for 8 oz. My hair felt waaay softer and somehow stronger too.
Curl
Slightly slippery gelRub some gel between your palms: "If your hands stick together, your hair will look like petrified ramen noodles," says Massey. Start with a quarter-size dollop of slippery gel, then add more as needed to coat every curl.
I tried: Curlisto Structura Lotion, $12. Utterly unsticky, with enough hold so that I could squeeze my curls into shape.
New technique
I swear, this info changed my life. Instead of the classic "scrunching" motion, which throws individual curls out of whack, Ouidad taught me the "cup and squeeze" method: Cup the bottom of the curl in your palm, push it all the way up to your head, then squeeze when your fingers touch your scalp. Now each curl comes out boing-a-licious!
Curl
Hair clipsI was resigned to my medium-size curls, but with the help of hair clips, you can make your curls tighter or looser than they are naturally. Want them tighter? When hair is still damp, wrap each curl around your little finger, then secure it at your scalp with a hair clip, like an old-fashioned pin curl. When hair is dry, release the clips. Want them looser? Wrap each curl around two or three fingers, then clip, dry, and release. Want waves? Wait until your curls are dry, then stretch and wrap hair into five small buns (à la Princess Leia) around your head. Secure with baby butterfly clips, heat with a diffuser, and release. Who knew?
I tried: Ricky's NYC Kupfernickel Clips, $3, and Goody Colour Collection Half Claw, $3.99. Both good, both cheap.
Curl
Diffuser attachmentFor those who can't wait for their hair to dry naturally, speed up the process with a blow-dryer and diffuser.
I tried: DevaSun Dryer and DevaFuser, $185. I've gotta hand it to the Deva people: This diffuser was amusing to use and kept my scalp from getting scorched.
Correct
Oops!Too much crunch to your curls? Rub a little paste or pomade between your palms, then move your hands over your hair as if you're pulling it back into a ponytail. I tried: Jonathan Product Dirt Texturizing Paste, $26. Instant crunch relief!
Coax
Not quite curly?If you have even a whisper of a wave in your hair, try using a mousse — which adds the necessary volume and hold — plus the "cup and squeeze" technique. To try: Extreme Style by VO5 Curvaceous Curls, $3, which leaves hair soft and unsticky.